Keeping rabbits and deer at bay is one good reason to have a garden fence. But even when you don't have to worry about animals, fences can provide a lovely border. They also provide protection against wind. Many people will hold off putting one up, though, because the task seems overwhelming. It doesn't have to be.
Garden fence kits are one way to go. These are complete assemblies that include everything you need to put up an attractive and sturdy fence. Some are so cleverly designed all you need to do is snap together the pieces and you're done. They come in sections to make a square or rectangle. Some have modified braces that allow you to make an octagon or semi-circle.
Most are a little less simple, but still require only minimal work. The slats are pre-attached to horizontal supports called cross-members or rails. A few minutes is all that's required to attach them to corner posts. A few screws inserted with a power screwdriver/drill and you're in business.
Sinking posts doesn't have to be a major chore, either. For some small garden fences it isn't necessary at all. The posts will provide corner support for the slat sections, but the whole thing can simply sit on the ground without digging any post holes.
For additional support it's possible to get metal post support stakes that take a lot of the effort out of the process. These are square metal 'cups' that have a 12-18 inch spike welded onto the bottom. The stake is pounded into the ground.
The metal cup can sit into a small square hole or above the surface. They're usually painted in attractive colors or you can finish them to match your garden design. Then you just slide the post into the cup and secure it by tightening the cup using the integrated nut and bolt.
They can support considerable weight. One fence built this way withstood jumping on the fence and walking down the horizontal supports for the slats without tipping. After several snow-filled winters and springs of high wind and rain it's still in place.
Lattice work is always popular and it too is available in pre-made sections that are easy to install. They're the perfect option for climbing plants, ivy and others that will wind their way in and around the lattice. They also provide an easy way to support tall plants near the edge. Just use a bit of tie-wrap and tall tulips will stand up well to wind.
To protect against invasion by gophers and other ground dwellers, just extend the fencing below the ground about a foot. That can be as simple as just digging a trench and planning to have your slats a little taller than you originally envisioned. Chicken wire at the base and under the surface is another easy way to achieve the same result.
Fence your garden and have a finished look that protects your plants. It's easy!
Fences can provide privacy, security and even beauty to a property. But one type is used for one basic purpose: to keep pets where they should be. Electric pet fences are the most common and effective type.
There are two basic types of electric pet fence: visible and invisible.
Invisible or hidden types are usually a simple design made of an underground wire and associated hardware. The wire forms a complete loop, which is attached to a source of low voltage and current. The circuit senses when a pet approaches and can provide a mild electric shock via a collar the pet wears. The shock isn't painful, it merely startles. Sometimes the collar has an integrated sound emitter that adds to the effect.
Dogs and cats both quickly learn to associate the noise and discomfort with the line they approach. Often, that line is made even more obvious by a series of flags staked into the ground to give both animal and owner an indication of where the line is drawn.
Hidden electric pet fences have a balance of pros and cons and where the scales come to rest will vary with individual circumstances.
Some animals (especially if they see something they want to chase) will charge right through, ignoring the collar. Once they're on the outside of the perimeter, it can be even harder to encourage them to cross back inside. Some fences can take that into account and turn off the circuit once the animal has crossed. With other pets it's rarely a problem.
The other basic type of electric pet fence provides a physical and visible barrier above the ground. They're more often used for larger animals, such as horses and cattle.
A more or less standard-looking post and rail style is built, with the rails being made of one or more wires. Some have an electrified wire only at the top, others provide electrification through the whole fence.
Here again the voltage and current are low, so there's no risk of physical injury. The shock may be uncomfortable, but it's well below the threshold of pain. The chief effect is similar to that of the hidden-fence-and-collar style. It startles and encourages the animal to move away.
The effectiveness varies, just as it does with the hidden pet fence. But this style has a little more going for it, since it doesn't just rely on the shock alone to drive the animal back. The physical barrier provides a sturdy perimeter, usually by means of high tensile strength wire and sound posts.
The electrification adds an added benefit: discouraging the animal from pushing through the fence. That does more than just save on costly repairs, it adds an element of safety. A half-down fence is much more likely to injure them.
Hidden electric pet fences are typically less expensive than above-the-ground types, since they're nothing more than a single wire and some electronic gear. Above the ground fencing offers additional security. Which is appropriate depends on your animal and layout.
Because of the expense of materials and construction, large properties often go without a fence. But there are options that bring fencing down to an affordable level.
A simple post and rail design is inexpensive to build. With fewer materials the cost is lower. It's also simple enough that anyone can build it without professional help. Hiring it done will still be relatively cheap, though, since the design allows for quick construction.
A post and rail design won't keep small animals out, but this fence design can still be highly useful. Larger animals like deer and horses can easily be kept at bay. Pedestrians will be much more reluctant to walk onto property that is fenced, even when the large gap makes it easy. Drivers see clearly where the property line is and the opening shows them where the driveway is located.
For those who have a need to keep cattle, sheep or horses penned within or kept outside there are several alternatives. A simple post and wire design is a take-off on the post and rail style. One variation involves laying a top wire that is electrified. The voltage isn't enough to cause serious harm, but it shocks enough that the animals soon learn to stay back.
Chain link continues to be a popular choice. For very large properties it can cost several thousand dollars to surround the entire perimeter. But many large properties are also bounded by small streams or ponds, hills and other natural terrain that can make the cost affordable.
A variation on the chain link is the fabric mesh fence. Despite the name, they're not necessarily cloth. Usually made of high grade composites, they're nonetheless often a cost-effective alternative to traditional chain link fences.
Some are as simple as a plastic diamond that will create a border, provide some privacy and prevent small animals from making their way easily through. While creatures can chew through, they often will simply go away.
Other types are more cloth-like and give complete privacy at a much lower cost than, say, a shoulder-to-shoulder wood fence. They have the additional advantage of decreasing dust for those who live on dirt roads or near an open field. They can help reduce wind damage to gardens, too.
For those with the need, and a higher budget, a full fence is still possible. If it's possible to sacrifice some sturdiness, a lattice style - like a waffle or cleft - is an option. They're a familiar sight in gardens where they look like basket weave. A four-foot fence of this type can enclose a couple of acres at a reasonable cost.
Privacy, security and animal control are all possible even for those with a large perimeter and a limited budget. Fencing options today are as broad as your property.
The use of a dog as a component in security goes back thousands of years. Chinese palaces were protected by dogs. Even Greek myths have Cerebus guarding the gates of Hades. Some dogs are loyal, bark at strangers or have other attributes that suit them well for the role of guard dog.
Everyone is familiar with the image of a trained Doberman Pinscher or German Shepherd police dog as a guard dog. Certainly, those breeds make excellent guard dogs, when properly trained. They have the size, the temperament and the teeth to keep anyone out. There are others, such as Bull Mastiffs and Rottweilers.
German Shepherds and others can be taught to discriminate between those who are allowed in the home and those who are not. They operate by sight and smell and distinguish not only family members but 'authorized' visitors. Friends are greeted with a friendly tail wag, strangers receive a warning growl. Continuing advances by strangers get a bark, followed by a nasty bite if they persist.
Though any dog can be put down by poison or a gun, very few burglars are going to go to that extent. Most, once they become aware of the presence of a guard dog, will simply pick an easier target. There are, after all, plenty to choose from. Larger dogs represent, at least psychologically, a bigger threat and you increase the protection with a specialized dog.
But even much smaller breeds can serve well as guard dogs, provided they're trained properly and their environment is correctly arranged.
It's useless to have a dog that barks at everything. Though it might make some burglars nervous, if the owner is used to ignoring the warning because of too many false alarms, the basic purpose is defeated. Training can solve that problem with most breeds. Most dogs can be taught to bark only at likely threats.
Arranging the environment to maximize your guard dog's effectiveness is equally important. Some stay outside almost all the time. Some are predominantly indoor dogs. Both methods have their pros and cons. But a dog that is allowed both inside and out can cover the entire area.
One key is making access available to the dog, but not potential intruders. Some doggie doors make home intrusion ridiculously easy. A doggie door can allow most breeds access to the outside, for bathroom breaks and to patrol. At the same time, they can usually be made large enough for the dog, but too small for most men.
If you can't place them far enough away from the door handle to prevent unlocking, consider a two-sided key system deadbolt. That locks the door from the inside, requiring a key to unlock it, not just a twist.
Finish off your guard dog implementation with good signage, properly illuminated. Place clear and well-lit 'advertisements' that your home is protected by a guard dog. It isn't always necessary for the potential thief to see the dog to be warned away. The sign tells them they will encounter one soon enough. Most will take the hint and seek another victim.
